DUCK
FROM DENPASAR
Tulips
from Amsterdam - who hasn't heard of them But who has heard of Duck
from Denpasar Sit tight This Omission is about to be rectified.
For
the benefit of those as ignorant as myself - time was when Bali
was divided into realms ruled by rajahs. Today, there are Still
kingdoms in Bali - ruled by mastercraftsmen. Batubulan is famous
for its stone sculptures, Mas for woodcarvings, Celuk for silver
and Penestanan, so help me - for Smoked Duck Yes, Penestanan, a
little village just a few flaps of a heronbird's wing from Hotel
Tjampuhan. Wedged in between terraced ricefields and awash with
young artists churning out violently Coloured paintings at an alarming
rate, it is nevertheless the unchallenged titleholder for the "Best
Betutu in Bali".
Nor
does Penestanan take this honor lightly. The Eiffel Tower may topple,
the waterways of Venice run dry, but the good people of Penestanan
still jealously guard the fame of their spiced duck, made by a village
priest from a secret receipe, which take 24-hours - give or take
a few prayers - to prepare. First, the carcass must be
kneaded
and massaged with coconut oil, a multitude of herbs and spices are
then added, and finally it is wrapped in palm leaves, buried in
the ground and slowly smoked - until the entire body is ready to
crumble into a myriad succulent morsels. Such is Penestanan Betutu.
Against
this background, picture my consternation when a lady from Denpasar
proposed meeting me at the hotel, and bringing with her a smoked
duck for our lunch. Not just any old duck, so she assured me, but
a special Betutu - prepared, from a secret receipe, by the best
cook in Denpasar And, if you think the
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